You have to admire Christian Irabién’s persistence and patience. The 43-year-old Chihuahua-born, El Paso-raised chef has been working for seven years to open Amparo, his lively, loving celebration of Mexican cuisine.
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At the heart of Amparo is his idea for recreating his grandparents’ Yucatan-style seafood restaurant, the Fisherman’s Cove, which they operated in El Paso, Texas, in the early to late 1990s. It was a family affair. His cousins and uncles worked there, his mother did the books, and he, not always happily, washed dishes and bused tables when he was a teenager.
Read the whole piece, including rave reviews, at WashingtonCityPaper.com.